A honeyed, fruity tobacco. The materials are known, their order is not — and I would rather tell you that than invent it.
What is certain are the seven materials announced: tobacco, honey, plum, peach, citrus, amber and oriental spices. So you know exactly what the fragrance is like: a soft tobacco, wrapped in honey, with stone fruits for the juice and amber for the warmth.
Perfumery tobacco has nothing to do with cigarettes: it is a dried leaf, sweet, a little leathery and a little hay-like — the smell of an opened cigar box. Paired with honey, which is thick and almost waxy, it gives a warm, enveloping fragrance.
The plum and the peach bring the candied fruit, and the citrus a touch of freshness on application.
What is not certain: which material comes first and which stays to the end. So I am not ranking them.
Autumn, winter, evenings. 80 ml format.
The notes
Top — Tobacco, honey, plum, peach, citrus, amber, oriental spices
Olfactive family
Leather and honey
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A fruity that ends powdery, and the iris is the key to the turn.
— The opening is frank and juicy: orange, lemon, pineapple. Pineapple in the top notes gives that sweet acidity that wakes you up without attacking — a joyful entrance.
— Then the heart changes register completely. The jasmine brings the flower, the pink pepper the sparkle, and the iris the powder. Iris is the most expensive material in classical perfumery: it is extracted from the root after three years of drying, and it smells of rice powder, cold butter and violet. It is what gives this fragrance its dressed-up air.
— The base holds for a long time: vanilla, musk, vetiver, patchouli, amber. The vetiver and patchouli are there for earth and wood, the vanilla and amber for softness. Balance.
Who it is for: someone who wants a fruity fragrance that does not stay a sweet. The fruit-iris-wood progression is well made and gets noticed.
All year, day or evening. Long wear, moderate projection.
The notes
Top — Orange, lemon, pineapple
Heart — Jasmine, iris, pink pepper
Base — Vanilla, musk, vetiver, patchouli, amber
Olfactive family
Iris and white flowers
For hygiene reasons, this product cannot be returned once it has been unsealed after delivery. Your 14-day right of withdrawal applies in full to items whose original packaging has not been opened.
Twenty-one materials announced. It is the most loaded pyramid in the whole catalogue, and the name — mélange — is honest.
— The opening is a greengrocer's display: strawberry, blackcurrant, peach, plum, apple, coconut. Six fruits, plus nutmeg and basil. The basil is the detail to remember: it is an aromatic herb, green and aniseed, which cuts the sugar of the fruits and keeps the opening from turning into syrup. Without it, the whole thing would be unreadable.
— The heart is a bouquet in five voices: iris, orchid, jasmine, lily of the valley, rose. White flowers, powder, rose — this is the most classic part of the fragrance.
— The base is a landscape: moss, patchouli, cedar, sandalwood, ambergris, musk, vanilla, tonka bean. Earth, wood, musk and sugar. Eight materials to hold twenty-one up.
Honestly: a fragrance with twenty-one materials rarely smells like twenty-one materials. In practice what you perceive is a powdery, warm fruity floral, pleasant and broad. That is not a flaw, it is the nature of the exercise.
Spring, autumn, daytime. Average to long wear.
The notes
Top — Strawberry, blackcurrant, peach, plum, apple, coconut, nutmeg, basil
Heart — Iris, orchid, jasmine, lily of the valley, rose
Base — Moss, patchouli, vanilla, cedar, sandalwood, ambergris, musk, tonka bean
Olfactive family
Red and ripe fruits
For hygiene reasons, this product cannot be returned once it has been unsealed after delivery. Your 14-day right of withdrawal applies in full to items whose original packaging has not been opened.